Abberton is suddenly and rapidly moving into the 21st century as a new type of customer patronises the club with his (and her) trade. Gone are the days when a grubby, unshaven little man sat in the corner of the bar supping his Guinness. Actually, that's not quite true, the Head of Security still has not embraced the grape, but there can be no doubting that a 'new breed' of more sophisticated punter is here to stay.

Main supplier Paul Da Vino (pictured right) takes up the story: "The club used to stock some truly revolting varietals such as Belarussian Cabernet and the traditional Liebfraumilchs such as Blue Nun, Black Tower and Purple Helmet. It was really no surprise that nobody bothered trying them on more than one occasion.

However, during the last few months there has been an increasing number of discerning customers whose tastes need to be accommodated if we are to take this club forward.

The Blossom Hill Brigade, Lady Cava-Paget and highly-respected local wine connoisseur Brian Le Blanc are among those who have 'upped the ante' as far as the drinks offerings are concerned. I have started to introduce new producers with exciting wines to tempt their palettes and I aim to feature a 'Wine of the Month', the first of which is detailed below."

Ash Grove Merlot

Country of origin: Turkey

Grape varieties: Merlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20%

ABV: 14.5%

Food matching: Bacon Bites, Old Trout

The Ash Grove Merlot is a fine example of the new Merlots which are popping up all over the world. This offering is from very old (and probably) withered vines and has a slightly gingery taste on the palate, although this will almost certainly dimish with proper cellaring.

Without doubt this superb wine has massive body and it is the high concentration of blackcurranty Merlot grapes which produce the extremely long and obvious purplish nose. Boasts a very high alocohol content. Best drunk late afternoon / early evening or on other rare occasions when allowed to be uncorked.

Paul's verdict: Definitely not to be sniffed at!

Tudor Court Riesling

Country of origin: Republic of Mersea / Hungary

Grape varieties: Riesling 70%, Tokai 30%

ABV: 12.5%

Food matching: Ghoulash, Pusztapörkölt

The Tudor Court Riesling is quite simply a marvel of modern day viticulture. Mersea Island winemaker and ex-Guernsey resident Jean-Pierre le Focus-Zetec has reinvigorated withered old gnarled Riesling vines by grafting them on to fresh lithe Hungarian Tokai rootstock.

The prodcuct is very 'upfront' particularly if extra Hungarian grapes are added during pressing and is consequently not suited to the younger palates at The Brow. One problem J-P is yet to overcome is the tendency towards a secondary fermentation, especially if there is a lack of the Hungarian varietal for a few weeks.

Paul's verdict: Amazing what the Tokai grape does to what would otherwise be vinegar!

Everett's View 'Witts End' Cabernet Savignon, 1941

Country of origin: The chalky southfacing upslopes of Alresford Ciry and environs

Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon

ABV: 12%

Food matching: Chicken Sandwich and chips

One of the few 'war' vintage Cabernets made by veteran Everett Estates winemaker John Stockbridge (69). Most of the 1941 vintage left in circulation is completely tasteless and unpalatable and has a tendency to leave a very sour taste in one's mouth. Very, very occassionally, as of here, one can find the odd bottle that is still presentable with an agreeable aroma, blood red colour and bags of body, but such finds are few and far between.

In the main therefore 'caveat emptor'! This appalling vintage is best avoided as most of it was badly cellared resulting in a wine with a smell reminiscent of rotting cabbage and a colour more purple than a bruised groin!

Paul's verdict: Definitely an acquired taste.

Farmer Giles' 'Johnson's Hole' Pinot Noir

Country of origin: England, in particular the small Buckinghamshire village of Chalfont St Giles

Grape varieties: Pinot Noir

ABV: 14%

Food matching: anything Welts is buying

A real one-off in as much that this varietal is almost unheard of in such northern climes. However, winemaker Orlando 'Farmer' Giles, one of the up and coming stars of English viticulture, has successfully grown Pinot Noir vines that produce huge bunches of grapes between two mounds of land in an area the locals call 'Johnson's Hole'. In fact, the grapes are that swollen with juice that each individual bunch has to be cushioned to stop them reaching the ground by a small rubber ring! The resultant wine has a rounded, extremely corpulent body to it that seems to get even bigger with age. It can leave a sour taste on an older palatte.

Pauls verdict: Best drunk young before it gets too 'big'!